Hey guys , just wondering is the Babyliss super motor pro sold in the UK ( gunmetal grey/silver ) the same as the gold and silver FX variants that are sold in the US ? Thank you .

The Pro Gold FX skeleton doesn't seem to be available in the UK. If seen the Super Motor Skeleton though - is that the same trimmer but just for the UK market?

I have the Super Motor Trimmer (UK/Ireland model).... And just wondering if I can change the blades for the graphite ones used on the FX in the US?

Anyone on here got their hands on these? Considering buying them myself I’m currently using the Slimline Pro I have no problems with them but an upgrade is always nice!

Does anyone know if you can attach any other comb guides higher than the 6 provided to this clipper? I've heard certain Wahl guides fit it but I don't know if it's true or which ones they are.

Hey guys,
New to this sub. Sorry if this has already been covered.
I'm wanting to pick up a new clipper. I pretty much exclusively use Wahl clippers (Cordless Senior being my main machine). I've been fancying a little change and the Babyliss peaked my interest since I've heard it's somewhat similar to Wahl machines.
I've heard some mixed reviews from this. A lot of barbers seem to love it, while others say it heats up too quick. I'm just looking for some first hand accounts from you guys, Specifically how it deals with bulk, run time and how hot it gets.
Any feedback would be greatly appreciated :)

Wiper motor*
As the title states my front wipers decided to stop working on all settings. I still can here the wiper motor. The rear still works though I guess they possibly run off different motors ...
First thing I did was tighten down the bolts that hold the wipers but that didn't fix it
Any help would be great , thank u

I want my next bike to be a super moto. I'm looking at a few different ones, but some of the bikes I'm drawn to have insanely short oil change intervals. Like 600 miles. I'm thinking specifically of the wr450 and the xr650r.
I'm used to Street bikes and I have always thought changing oil was annoying at every 3-5000 miles. I can't imagine doing it every week!
I'm wondering... Is it really that inconvenient to change it so often?
Is the performance increase worth it to buy a bike with those maintenance intervals?
I'm also thinking of turning the xr650L into a super moto, which has intervals of 2000 miles instead of the r version with every 600 miles. I hear the bike is quite a bit different and not as exciting as the xr650r though...
I would love to hear everyone's thoughts on this!

Looking at getting some as really like the look of them just wondering if they handle well under pressure and pull of a clean fade? any alternatives if so let me know? also what is the best wahl blade to get it too a true 0 because ive heard people saying its hard to fade from skin? but don't mind switching it tbf.

Who's interested in going Super Motor Show at SM Marikina? Any car enthusiast like me coming there? I'm excited to see awesome modifications.
If anyone's interested, here's the information:
Super Motor Show August 15, 2015 SM City Marikina 12pm to 12mn Drift Demo, carshow and sound off competition, modified bike display and Bike stunt show. +Pinay Beauty Queen Candidates from GMA TV. +Concert, Battle of rap, DJ and MC Pikaso from Turf TV Pinoy Extreme Channel. Admission: Free Car show Entry Fee: 1,500 Car Display: 500
Hope to see you guys there!

The proto tokens we get for prototype troops why not collect them up and use them to open a prototype weapons in the weapons lab. Something like hammermen's super motor or the mg machine gun from his early bases and if you have a proto type defense could be a choice

Hello,
I recently asked how one could possibly print things fast; this post is me providing some answers. My motivation was to print Halloween costumes for my 5yo kid. In my original post, I got the vibe that this was an unsolved problem for hobbyists.
It is often said that "speed is an illusion". This post is about achieving true speedups, hopefully by an order of magnitude (10x). Someone once told me "fast or accurate: choose one", this is my attempt at doing fast while being as accurate as possible. (Actually, I suspect you can do both fast and accurate, if price is no object.)

• Not an illusion: Can your printer print a giant 9kg thing in 36 hours?

What does it take to 3d print fast?

Although the speed of the XY plane motion is important, we begin by looking at our combination of Extruder (the motor that pushes the filament), Hotend (the thing that melts the plastic) and Nozzle diameter. Together, these three elements dictate the maximum volumetric flow rate (VFR), i.e. for a given material, the number of grams of melted plastic you can squeeze out each second. Here's a Youtube tutorial to help you measure your volumetric flow rate for your printer. You will notice that this measurement is entirely independent of your XY motion, so it's good to think about this on its own.
A typical Prusa extruder+hotend gives 10-15mm³/s for PLA, and half that for PETG. It has been claimed that this weird nozzle extrudes PETG at 70mm³/s on stock Prusa printers; if true, this is astonishing. An E3D SuperVolcano hotend paired with a Titan extruder on a CR10 can extrude 150+mm³/s for PLA. Apparently, the Prusa extruder cannot keep up with a powerful hotend like the SuperVolcano. This may be because the Prusa extruder has a 1:1 gear ratio and hence lower torque; apparently the Prusa extruder also operates on small amperages. Note that, while geared extruders (like the Titan) have much higher torque, they are also more likely to cause various sorts of filament jams. This is because a lower torque extruder will start clicking/skipping when the filament becomes too hard to push, but geared extruder will keep on keeping on regardless. The filament has to go somewhere, and it ends up in places it shouldn't be in.

Nozzle diameter and XY speed

The above tutorial tells you how to measure your maximum flow rate when the print head is immobile, but in reality, your maximum flow rate is also related to how fast your print head is moving. More precisely, the print volume per second V is given by V = πsr², where r is the nozzle radius (half the diameter), and s is the speed (in mm/s) of your 3d print head; I'll call this the Linear Volumetric Rate (LVR). So at this point in our conversation, we now have two hard limits on our print speed: the maximum power of our extruder+hotend (VFR), and the XY velocity (and nozzle diameter) of our print head (LVR). Note that the nozzle diameter influences both VFR and LVR.
With a standard 0.4mm nozzle (r=0.2) and standard speeds (s=70mm/s), you are printing at V = 8.796mm³/s. This is a maximum printing speed dictated by the XY rate of motion and the nozzle diameter. The Prusa extrudeE3D V6 is able to melt plastic at 10-15mm³/s, so on stock printers, nozzle diameter is the limiting factor.
One can get substantial speedups by moving to 0.6mm nozzles, but 0.8mm nozzles usually outstrip the capacity of the extrudehotend. So, to print faster, one needs both faster XY motion and more powerful extrusion and hotend.
Remark: Another point of view is that the Prusa is limited by the speed of its XY motion. If the XY motion were faster, while retaining accuracy, then the hotend/extruder and 0.4mm nozzle would be able to get closer to the theoretical 15mm³/s flow rate for its hotend/extruder.

Fast linear motion of the print head.

• This is an FDM printer printing at s=800mm/s.

The Y axis on your entry-level 3d printer consist of the entire print bed and the work sitting on top of it; this substantial mass severely limits the maximum acceleration (and speed) of your XY plane. Even if you replaced your Y axis stepper with some sort of super motor, the acceleration would peel the work right off the print bed. Fast print speeds require that the work be (almost) stationary. Furthermore, your printer frame needs to be as stiff as possible, otherwise the large accelerations will cause vibrations and ringing or failed prints.
As of this writing (late 2020), the most popular approach is CoreXY printers; the 800mm/s printer above was indeed a CoreXY printer. Note that CoreXY is a specific arrangement of belts and pulleys; there are other (nameless) systems that keep the work stationary, but these alternate systems are not very popular as of 2020. In my opinion, a system based on (ball) screws would be stiffemore accurate than belts, but this wouldn't be called a CoreXY system.
CoreXY printers are hard to find, and, as of this writing, Chinese CoreXY printers are not very good. The aluminum extrusions are connected with plastic component, and the whole machine has a lot of wobble and other issues. As previously mentioned, the key to fast XY motion is a stiff machine. I'm not sure there is a point in buying a wobbly CoreXY machine; you can probably get a better traditional Cartesian printer for cheaper.
The kings of stiffness are, no doubt, the lathes and mills used to carve steel and titanium with sub-micron accuracy. These machines are often made of cast iron and can literally weight a ton, all in the name of stiffness. When I close my eyes, I imagine such a stiff 3d printer whose XY motion breaks the sound barrier without causing any perceptible wobble in the work. :)
CoreXY printers arose from the reprap community, where several designs have made their mark. The SecKit SK-GO has a print volume of (300mm)³ for approx 1000$, it is apparently Teaching Tech's favorite printer. The Modix Big 60 is bigger (600mm)³, more professional, and more expensive (approx 4000$), although I'm not 100% sure it's CoreXY or some other similar mechanism. The 800mm/s printer above is also a CoreXY printer from the reprap community. The E3D Toolchanger is a 2000$ CoreXY machine. There are several more famous CoreXY designs, I apologize for not listing them all.

Printing so fast it collapses

This is a side note, but if you print a single XY layer fast enough, it could still be molten by the time you try to print the next layer on top of it. In fact, if you print really fast, you could be piling up several molten layers (this happened for the 9kg object I linked above). One way to mitigate this problem is to increase the cooling power of whatever fan you have near your print nozzle, or introduce some sort of interlayer pause as needed.

Conclusions

To summarize, if you want to print moderately fast in a small to moderate volume (up to (250mm)³?), get any Cartesian printer and put in a 1.4mm nozzle with a SuperVolcano hotend and Titan/Hemera extruder. If you want to go super fast over large volumes, especially with smaller nozzles, get a very rigid CoreXY printer (or similar system that keeps the work immobile). You'll also need a super-powered extruder to push out all that viscous molten plastic through a tiny hole.
As a mathematician, I suspect there are some unsolved/unexplored problems related to how molten plastics violently explode out of tiny orifices moving at high speeds, but that question is for another day!

Walmart : Mobil Super 5W-20 High Mileage Motor Oil, 5 qt. $12.98 . $5.98 if you use the $7 rebate with purchase of five or more quarts (or multiquart-jug equivalent) of any Mobil Super™ motor oil.